Suburban 12 engine pulley
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Suburban 12 engine pulley
My 1968 Suburban 12 engine pulley is positioned as close to the engine as possible which I guess it needs to be to line up properly with the drive belt. My question is does the pulley need to be moved out on the shaft (there is a little room) to accommodate a snowblower attachment? Otherwise it doesn't seem to allow enough clearance for the belt coming off the snowblower. According to my owner manual the snowblower drives off the 2nd pulley from the outside. As it stands now it just barely lines up with the first smaller pulley which doesn't provide enough rpm's. I took the 2 set screws out & the pulley won't budge. I guess I need to take it to someone who has some type of pulley-puller but before I go to any more trouble I wanted to see if anyone could tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree. Thanks
marshallgang- Number of posts : 49
Registration date : 2012-09-18
Re: Suburban 12 engine pulley
My 197.25400 tractor has four sheeves on the output pully. My reference material says to use the third one out, the same one I use for the mower deck, for the"rotary snowplow". I have a 197.251920 snowthrower that I haven't mounted for years, too easy to just use one of my old 71-72 Gilson blowers, but when I did mount it I had to remove the side of my front grille to clear the drive belt.
Be VERY! careful removing that pully! They are rare and hard to replace.
Use at least a three jaw puller, a good quality penetrant (Mechanics Choice, PB Blaster, Deep Creep, Brute Magic Oil ...NOT WD!) soak for as much as a couple days prior. "Load up" the puller ... don't force it or you might crack the pully ... and tap on the end of the forcing screw with a medium size ball peen hammer. Load it, tap it, load it, tap it. Unload it, remove the puller and tap the pully inward with a large pin punch and repeat. It should start to move. If this doesn't give results you may have to resort to heating the pully to get it to break loose.
Roger
Be VERY! careful removing that pully! They are rare and hard to replace.
Use at least a three jaw puller, a good quality penetrant (Mechanics Choice, PB Blaster, Deep Creep, Brute Magic Oil ...NOT WD!) soak for as much as a couple days prior. "Load up" the puller ... don't force it or you might crack the pully ... and tap on the end of the forcing screw with a medium size ball peen hammer. Load it, tap it, load it, tap it. Unload it, remove the puller and tap the pully inward with a large pin punch and repeat. It should start to move. If this doesn't give results you may have to resort to heating the pully to get it to break loose.
Roger
Roger Nelson- Number of posts : 7
Registration date : 2008-06-02
Re: Suburban 12 engine pulley
The photo of your suburban looks exactly like my 1967 suburban 10. What year is yours? Thanks for the reply. If you removed part do your grill to provide clearance I should be able to do that as well. What part of your grill did you remove? They seem to be one solid piece.
marshallgang- Number of posts : 49
Registration date : 2012-09-18
Re: Suburban 12 engine pulley
Mine is a 1967 Sears HydroTrac. It originally had a 12hp Sears/Tecumseh flathead engine with a Sundstrand HydroGear transaxle. I repowered it with a 14hp OHV Tecumseh back in the early 90's. It's my "daily driver" tractor.
On the right side of my grill, as you see it in the avatar picture, there is a small panel below the headlight housing held on by two bolts. When removed it gives extra clearance for the snowthrower drive belt. Check the inside of your grille housing behind the screen to see if you have bolt heads there.
On the right side of my grill, as you see it in the avatar picture, there is a small panel below the headlight housing held on by two bolts. When removed it gives extra clearance for the snowthrower drive belt. Check the inside of your grille housing behind the screen to see if you have bolt heads there.
Roger Nelson- Number of posts : 7
Registration date : 2008-06-02
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