Clutch/Brake GT 19.9

I have a '78 Sears GT 19.9, a work horse and very dependable tractor. My problem is there is no pressure on the Clutch/Brake peddle. The tractor was pulled into the garage. Next time it was to go out mowing, it would not move. I went up to check out the problem and found no pressure on the peddle. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks. isterjr

HI
THERE IS ABOUT 3 OR 4 CHANCES ON THIS ONE, COTTER PIN LOST OUT ON LINK, LINK END WORN OFF, LEVER BROKEN THAT V IDLER AND SPRING ATTACHES TO, LARRY HAD THE SAME ON HIS 19.9 & MY 1978 GT18 HAD THE LEVER REPLACED UNDER FACTORY WARRENTY, HOW DO I KNOW THAT? THE TRACTOR HAS 230 HRS WITH ALL SER. RECORDS FROM PO HE KEPT A SERVICE CONTRACT ON THE MACHINE UNTIL HIS DEATH IN 2001. BEEN STORED SINCE, ONLY USED TO PUSH A SNOW PLOW IN ST. LOUIS. IF YOU CAN LIFT THE PEDAL AND MAKE THE MACHINE MOVE CHECK THE CLUTCH SPRING. AFTER REREADING YOUR POST, PROBABLY THE CLUTCH SPRING BROKE, IF SO YANK UP ON PEDAL AND OFF YOU GO.
GOOD LUCK
JIMMY

I will start looking for a spring..after I pull up on the clutch pedal. I will hold on tight, using a slow throttle. I will update in a few days. Thanks

Finally, I got back up to check out this clutch problem. Looking around after I took off the side panel, I found the spring not hook to anything. I see where the spring hooks to the idler pulley but no idea where the other end of the spring hooks. I think I will have to take the mowing deck off, but after that I have no idea where to start. You helped me with replacing the starter on this machine. I would like your advice and knowledge on putting this spring back into place......too, I noticed that the idler pulley is eating up the heat shield which is between the idler pulley and the engine......thanks

HI ISTER
HAS THE SPRING BROKE THE HOOK OFF THE END THAT HOOKS TO THE SIDE FRAME? DON'T TAKE THE DECK OFF, NO NEED, FIRST TAKE THE BATTERY OUT TO BE ABLE TO LOOK FOR THE FRAME HOOK END OF SPRING. A COTTER PIN THROUGH THE SIDE OF FRAME THAT ANCHORS THE SPRING MAY BE RUSTED AWAY. SOUNDS LIKE THE BUSHING ON THE CLUTCH IDLER BRACKET MAY BE WORN OUT, ALLOWING THE IDLER TO RUB THE SIDE OF THE MOTOR. TELL US MORE, THINK WE CAN FIX THE PROBLEM.
GOOD LUCK
JIMMY

Winter is slowly leaving my area. My thoughts went to Daddy's GT. I traveled the ten miles with high hopes. I found the tractor as I had left it. I took the battery out. Mostly all I could see was the battery tray. Looking closer I could see a cotter pin that looks brand new, but it is not new. Does the spring I found hook to this pin and the Idler puller?? If so, looks like a real trick to pull this stiff spring between the two. This is first problem. Second I had mentioned the idler pully rubbing the heat shield. You suggested the idler bushing. I glanced around and notice a bolt missing which bolts the bottom of the heat shield to the low part of cylinder block. I hope that made sense. The bolt hole looks striped. Good luck me finding a bolt. looks like 1/2 to 1 inch by 1/4 to 5/16. This bolt missing is letting the heat shield come out an inch or more from cylinder.
If that wasn't a mouth full. Next and lastly, for now. I found the safety start actuator, no bolt, on the floor. I think it goes somewhere around the clutch pedal. Any ideas?? I want to thank you so much for your time and helpful advice. Too, I apologize for being so long to get back to you. The building this tractor calls home is unheated and our winter was on the harsh side. Thanks again......ister

HI ISTER
I WAS WONDERING WHY THE CLUTCH SPRING CAME OFF. IS THE BELT OK ? IS THE BELT IN ALL THE PULLYS. THE REASON I ASK IS I HAVE SEEN A SPRING COME UN HOOKED FROM THE COTTER PIN THROUGH THE SIDE FRAME WHEN A BELT BROKE. OK IF BELT IS GOOD WE WILL REATTACH THE SPRING, FIRST REMOVE THE ENGINE BELT PULLY COVER, (TWO CLIPS) SLIDE THE DECK BELT OFF THE PULLEY, YOU WILL SEE A GUARD THAT COVERS THE FRONT SIDE OF THE INNER BELT & PULLY, YOU WILL NEED TO TAKE OUT A BOLT ON THE TOP END OF THE BELT GUARD & A NUT OFF THE BOTTOM END, AFTER MOVING THE GUARD YOU CAN REMOVE THE CLUTCH BELT OFF THE PULLY, JUST LET THE BELT HANG FREE. OK IF WE ARE GOOD SO FAR, WE CAN NOW LIFT THE IDLER UP FAR ENOUGH TO RE HOOK THE SPRING. NOW YOU WILL NEED TO HOLD DOWN THE CLUTCH PETAL TO HAVE ENOUGH SLACK IN THE BELT TO REINSTALL THE BELT ON THE ENGINE PULLY. IS THE LOWER BELT IDLER ON THE FRAME GOOD, HAVE SEEN A BELT JUMP OFF THE LOWER IDLER AND CAUSE YOUR PROBLEM. ON THE HEAT SHEALD BOLT THREADS STRIPPED LOOK FOR A BOLT A COUPLE OF THREADS LONGER & TIGHTEN VERY GENTLY, NOT MUCH PRESSURE THERE JUST DON"T WANT THE BOLT FALLING OUT. IT MAY LOOK VERY CLOSE AROUND THE SPRING BUT THERE IS PLENTY OF WORK ROOM, NEED GOOD LIGHT.
KEEP ME POSTER JIMMY

Hi Jimmy. Thanks for getting back so soon. I hope this finds you well. We replaced the starter on this fine machine last summer, I am sure we can handle this. All the belts look fine and in the pulleys. My brother in-law works this mower. Last summer I enjoyed working it once. I noticed the brake did not hold while I had to descend a hill backwards. I meant to adjust the brake but did not get around to it. A possible reason for the spring to come off???? Too, would the safety start actuator coming off have any thing to do with the spring coming off??? Jimmy, it may be a few days before I get back on this, we are having some very cold temps here. Not really whining, I just do my best work in warmer temps. I will do my best with the heat shield bolt. Do you know what diam., length and thread this bolt should be??? Thanks again for your knowledge...ister

Hey Jimmy. I made my trip to revisit my dad's great machine. I sat on a hand made stool, pondered how to get the clutch spring reattached. After going thru your steps to release belt tension, which went well, I finally got the spring hooked to the cotter pin. I did not have any small vice grips, so I went home and got a small pair of needle nose grips. Well they slipped and spring fell to mower deck. Any way, finally the spring hooked to the idler pully. Tied the clutch peddle down and put all guards and belts back. Released the clutch peddle. All looked good. I replaced the battery and put jumper cables on. Nothing....no clicking..Nothing. The head lights burn, the fuse near the battery is good. The PTO peddle was pushed down, keeping the PTO off.
As I mentioned before, I found a part, which the exploded view of brake and clutch in the manual shows is a Safety Start Actuator. It is 1 1/2" wide and 4" long with one end rolled up and a small bolt hole thru. I am at a total lost to where it goes......Could this be the reason my machine will not turn over.....Too, the heat shield is bolted back into place, not very pretty, but bolted. Thanks so much for all your help, and thanks for this helpful sight....isterjr

HI ISTER
GOOD TO HEAR YOU REATTACHED THE SPRING, WHAT WAS THE HEAT SHEILD PART IN THIS PROJECT, THE PART THAT YOU HAVE, IS THE PADDLE THAT PRESSES THE SAFETY START SWITCH IN TO MAKE CONTACT, SO THE STARTER WILL WORK, THERE IS ALSO A SAFETY SWITCH LOCATED ON THE DECK ACCUATOR LEVER, THIS FLAP LOOKING THING GOES ON THE CENTER OF THE CLUTCH/BRAKE SHAFT TO PRESS ON THE SWITCH WHEN YOU PRESS DOWN ON CLUTCH/BRAKE PEDAL, TAKE RT. SMALL SLOTTED PANEL OFF TO BE ABLE TO SEE DOWN TO THE CROSS SHAFT, SMALL HOLE IS DRILLED THROUGH THE SHAFT, THE LOOPED END GOES AROUND THE SHAFT WITH TH SMALL BOLT THROUGH BOTH TO ATTACH THE FLAP, BOLT AND NUT IS HARDWARE STORE ITEM, BE CAREFUL ON THIS STEP, YOU WILL SEE A SWITCH WITH A BUTTON STICKING OUT THE OPISET END FROM 2 WIRES, MASH AND HOLD BUTTON IN WHILE TURNING IGN. KEY TO START, WHEW I AM EXHAUSTED FROM ALL THIS WORK.
KEEP ME POSTED
JIMMY

1. CLUTCH IDLER SPRING REATTACHED. 2. HEAT SHIELD...THIS SHIELD, AS YOU MAY KNOW STANDS BETWEEN THE CYLINDER AND CLUTCH IDLER PULLEY. THE SHIELD AND THE IDLER PULLEY CAME INTO CONTACT WITH EACH OTHER. THERE IS A LONG CUT IN THE SHIELD. THIS WAS CAUSED BY THE BOLT COMING OUT. I FOUND A BOLT JUST A TAD LARGER IN DIAM. ADDED A COUPLE OF WASHERS TO SHORTEN BOLT. THE SHIELD PULLED TIGHT AND NOW HAVE ABOUT 1/4" CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE TWO. 3. SWITCH PADDLE REATTACHED TO CLUTCH SHAFT. I USED A FOOT LONG PIECE OF COAT HANGER TO ALIGN HOLES, SLIPPED THE BOLT THRU THE BACK. 4. CLEANED THE WORK AREA. 5. HOOKED NEG. BATTERY CABLE. 6. FILLED WITH MYSTERY OIL FUEL. 7. CRANKED AND CRANKED.....(the tank was dry as a bone) SHE FIRED, STARTED AT LOW THROTTLE, SLOWLY TOOK MORE FUEL AND AIR. 8. MOWED FOR HALF AN HOUR. 9. PUT HER TO BED, THROTTLE DOWN SLOWLY TO SLOW PUTT PUTT. 10. BEFORE NEXT USE...BLADES REPLACED WITH HAND FILED SHARPENED SET, GREASE IN ALL FITTINGS. ENGINE OIL IS GOOD UNTIL JUNE.

I WANT TO THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND HARD WORK YOU HAVE PUT INTO THIS WONDERFUL MACHINE. MY SISTER SAYS I SHOULD SELL THIS TRACTOR. I JUST GIVE HER THAT LOOK I HAVE. THANKS TO THIS WONDERFUL GROUP. THANKS TO MY FATHER......isterjr

HEY ISTER
YOU ARE DOING GREAT WE MAY MAKE A TRACTOR MECHANIC OUT OF YOU YET. REALLY SOUNDS GOOD, JUST REMEMBER LOTS OF GOOD GREASE AND DIESEL ENGINE 15X45 OR 15X40 OIL ALSO OIL FILTER, NEED TO CHG. AIR FILTER AT LEAST ANNUALY.
HANG IN THERE
JIMMY