Replacing ends on SS12 drag link rod
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Replacing ends on SS12 drag link rod
Have read various thoughts on this Will this idea work?
Cut off a small amount from each end of the rod. Buy a couple of easily available new style screw on ends.
Put threads on the existing rod ends. Screw on the new ends, and adjust as needed.
How hard is the drag link steel, and can threads be put onto it?
(I know, no longer authentic, but maybe better than nothing.)
Why doesn't somebody create 50-100 drag link rods, and see how quickly they sell.
dave
Cut off a small amount from each end of the rod. Buy a couple of easily available new style screw on ends.
Put threads on the existing rod ends. Screw on the new ends, and adjust as needed.
How hard is the drag link steel, and can threads be put onto it?
(I know, no longer authentic, but maybe better than nothing.)
Why doesn't somebody create 50-100 drag link rods, and see how quickly they sell.
dave
davidderouchey- Number of posts : 27
Registration date : 2009-01-12
Re: Replacing ends on SS12 drag link rod
Dave , your asking the right question , ten years or so ago had the same thought problem is where the bends are in the link . was going to make a jig to be able to use the original steel to be machined for the idea i had , mean time made a quick temporary one that i have never had an issue with . bought two RH female tie rod ends , a short piece of NF all-thread rod and two lock nuts , using the original link as a pattern for length and then bent the rod to match the original offset bends . for my use just mowing the yard haven't had any problems with this set up , still think about doing something with the original link . time passes by keeping me busy with all the other ideas , repairs , and projects going on at a seemingly increasing rate the older i get . hope this helps answer your question . > tim
TKW- Number of posts : 108
Registration date : 2011-10-13
Re: Drag link & Tie Rod Repair
Hi Dave & all
Did a post on this subject a while back, first the bend in the drag link is not necessary, later roper decided to put a small twist in the pittman arm (steering rack lever) with a large dresent wrench you can do the same, so no bend in the drag link was necessary. I have been using 3/8" heim joints $8 each, the threaded rod will work well, but I use a peice of galvinized pipe to reinforce the drag link, tie rod assemblies can be made as well, promice you will never wear them out.
Have A Good One
Jimmy
Did a post on this subject a while back, first the bend in the drag link is not necessary, later roper decided to put a small twist in the pittman arm (steering rack lever) with a large dresent wrench you can do the same, so no bend in the drag link was necessary. I have been using 3/8" heim joints $8 each, the threaded rod will work well, but I use a peice of galvinized pipe to reinforce the drag link, tie rod assemblies can be made as well, promice you will never wear them out.
Have A Good One
Jimmy
Georgia SS- Number of posts : 222
Registration date : 2011-09-15
Re: Replacing ends on SS12 drag link rod
SS , i will have to take a look at that , it would simplify things a lot , thanks Jimmy > tim
TKW- Number of posts : 108
Registration date : 2011-10-13
New drag link made and working
As suggested, I purchased a piece of 3/8" fine threaded rod. Bought 2 3/8" tie rod ends on ebay.
I did heat the rod, and matched the original rod bends. Works great.
dave
I did heat the rod, and matched the original rod bends. Works great.
dave
davidderouchey- Number of posts : 27
Registration date : 2009-01-12
Re: Replacing ends on SS12 drag link rod
glad to help , Dave , hope this set-up gives you the same good service it has for me , i would've liked to have some experience with some front attachments to see how it handles turning with the extra weight . if you or anyone else does please post your findings , thanks > tim
TKW- Number of posts : 108
Registration date : 2011-10-13
Re: Replacing ends on SS12 drag link rod
SS , Got a chance to look at the twist in the later model pitman arm , you mentioned . that is a better design and an easier do it yourself fix . thanks > tim
TKW- Number of posts : 108
Registration date : 2011-10-13
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