Sears tractor Model 917.25.149 10/60
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Sears tractor Model 917.25.149 10/60
Hi,
Looking for some technical help with a 1977 Craftsman tractor. Have had it for over ten years, using it primarily to throw snow or haul stuff around. All of a sudden she just stopped running.
When I try to start her with a charged battery, she turns the engine maybe a couple of inches and then stops. The funny thing is that while checking her out, I touched the chock cable and it was hot. Then checked the wiring and shorts and did not find anything unusual. Tried it again and once again she tried to start and then stopped and the chock cable got hot. Why the chock cable gets hot is perplexing to say the least.
My thought are maybe the solenoid or the starter may be the culprits but not sure. I'll pull them out and check them but any suggestion would be very helpful. Or if someone has a troubleshooting procedure that I need to go thru.
My skill sets are pretty good as a mechanic but electrical issues have always been my worst nemesis.
Appreciate any suggestions.
Wally
Looking for some technical help with a 1977 Craftsman tractor. Have had it for over ten years, using it primarily to throw snow or haul stuff around. All of a sudden she just stopped running.
When I try to start her with a charged battery, she turns the engine maybe a couple of inches and then stops. The funny thing is that while checking her out, I touched the chock cable and it was hot. Then checked the wiring and shorts and did not find anything unusual. Tried it again and once again she tried to start and then stopped and the chock cable got hot. Why the chock cable gets hot is perplexing to say the least.
My thought are maybe the solenoid or the starter may be the culprits but not sure. I'll pull them out and check them but any suggestion would be very helpful. Or if someone has a troubleshooting procedure that I need to go thru.
My skill sets are pretty good as a mechanic but electrical issues have always been my worst nemesis.
Appreciate any suggestions.
Wally
Wally- Number of posts : 6
Registration date : 2011-11-26
Re: Sears tractor Model 917.25.149 10/60
Wally, Seems to me like your choke cable is touching the starter circuit wiring somewhere and vibration has worn the insulation off the wire. I have one out in the shop, so I will look for likely spots, but in the meantime, you could check the routing of the choke cable and anywhere it comes close to any wiring, tape or otherwise reinsulate it or them. bet you find the problem pretty quick, Good luck, John
sawbuckjohn- Number of posts : 3
Registration date : 2011-11-27
Hot Choke cable.
Thanks John,
Trying to get under front panel to see if the choke is somehow touching or in contact with wiring. Also thinking of replacing as much wiring as I can.
Appreciate the response,
Wally
Trying to get under front panel to see if the choke is somehow touching or in contact with wiring. Also thinking of replacing as much wiring as I can.
Appreciate the response,
Wally
Wally- Number of posts : 6
Registration date : 2011-11-26
Wiring problem on 10/6 tractor
Hi John,
Disassembled the electical part of the tractor, could not find anything showing burn marks from a short. Checked the solenoid and starter, both functioning properly. Put her together but have an issue with a wire that is I can't seem to find where it is connected. The wire is identified as B, has a 30 amp fuse, and one end is connected to the large terminal on the solenoid, the same terminal the cable from the positive side of the both battery is connected to. The solenoid has two large terminals and one small terminal. According to the schematic, the other end of the wire is connected to the rectifier(diode) which then goes to the charging coil.
Somehow my pieces of marking tape fell of the wire and I can't find where it goes. The parts book identifies a diode as part of the stator, alternator but sure don't recall disconnecting the wire there.
Just for a correction, the model number is 917.25140, 10/6 garden tractor. Don't want to try starting it until I have this problem resolved.
Any suggestions?
Appreciate any help.
Regards, Wally
Disassembled the electical part of the tractor, could not find anything showing burn marks from a short. Checked the solenoid and starter, both functioning properly. Put her together but have an issue with a wire that is I can't seem to find where it is connected. The wire is identified as B, has a 30 amp fuse, and one end is connected to the large terminal on the solenoid, the same terminal the cable from the positive side of the both battery is connected to. The solenoid has two large terminals and one small terminal. According to the schematic, the other end of the wire is connected to the rectifier(diode) which then goes to the charging coil.
Somehow my pieces of marking tape fell of the wire and I can't find where it goes. The parts book identifies a diode as part of the stator, alternator but sure don't recall disconnecting the wire there.
Just for a correction, the model number is 917.25140, 10/6 garden tractor. Don't want to try starting it until I have this problem resolved.
Any suggestions?
Appreciate any help.
Regards, Wally
Wally- Number of posts : 6
Registration date : 2011-11-26
Re: Sears tractor Model 917.25.149 10/60
Hi Wally, Sorry I didn't get back to you, I was expecting an email on my regular address. The wire with the 30 amp fuse(should be 20?) should go from solenoid to start switch. It actually powers the start switch, so it can power the starter,lights etc.--The one with the diode is power coming back from the stator/charging assembly inside the engine.It should have a connector plug on it. Could it be that that wire got cut or burned in half?---- I don't know how these figure into the choke cable getting hot thing. That almost certainly must be a short. Somewhere that choke cable is touching 12vdc. If it's when you turn the key, then it could be from solenoid to starter, or on the starter terminal itself. I was mistaken about having one in my shop. I have owned them, but don't have one now as a ready reference, so I can't just look. I find that with a good schematic, a multimeter and a $10 test light most problems can be tracted down. I'm afraid I'm at the end of my thinking from here. Sorry I couldn't be more help
Theres a picto/schematic here
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Riding-mower-tractor-Parts/Model-91725140/0247/1509200/00010009/00005?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=91725140
Theres a picto/schematic here
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Craftsman-Parts/Riding-mower-tractor-Parts/Model-91725140/0247/1509200/00010009/00005?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=91725140
sawbuckjohn- Number of posts : 3
Registration date : 2011-11-27
Sears Traactor Model 917.25.140
Thanks John,
This is a lot of help. Appreciate the time and help.
Happy Holidays
Wally
This is a lot of help. Appreciate the time and help.
Happy Holidays
Wally
Wally- Number of posts : 6
Registration date : 2011-11-26
HOT CHOKE CABLE
HI WALLY YOUR HOT CHOKE CABLE COULD BE CAUSED BY A CORRODED BATTERY GROUND CABLE CONNECTION TO THE ENGINE. AND THE CHOKE CABLE IS HELPING FINISH THE GROUND GROUND CIRCUIT EVEN THE ENGINE MAY HAVE LOST CONTACT WITH FRAME. IF THE BATTERY IS GROUNDED TO THE FRAME AND CONNECTIONS ARE CLEAN NOT JUST TIGHT. YOU MAY RUN A GROUND CABLE FROM POINT OF GROUND TO ENGINE. BACK IN THE OLD DAYS WE WERE BURNING THE THROTTLE LINKAGE AND CHOKE CABLES OFF VEHICLES FROM LACK OF BATTERY GROUND. A FEW WEEKS AGO I WAS STARTING MY SEARS A TOUCHED THE CHOKE CABLE AND IT WAS RED HOT, DID A QUICK LOOK AND FOUND THE CABLE TOUCHING THE SMALL WIRE CONNECTOR ON THE STARTER SOLONOID.I BELIEVE THE WIRE YOU HAVE DISCONNECTED PLUGS TO THE THIRD TREMINAL ON THE CHARGING RECTIFIER. GUESS I HAD BETTER STOP RATTLING. HAVE A GOOD DAY
Georgia SS- Number of posts : 222
Registration date : 2011-09-15
Re: Sears tractor Model 917.25.149 10/60
Hello Georgia SS
Thanks for the input. Checked the negative battery cable for conductivity, was ok.
Am able to get the starter to turn, although it doesn't engage into the flywheel, but thats another problem (my assumption is becasue of the short, she just isn't aggressive or strong enough to push up against the flywheel and engage. The choke cable still is getting hot. Will try putting a jumper wire from the negative side of the battery, attaching it to the engine block. See if that works.
The only thought is that maybe the wiring running into the engine for the stator/alternator maybe touching somewhere inside. Don't relish tearing the engine apart, did it once already which might have caused the problem.
As to the wire which I could not determine where it goes. This tractor has the accessory of a power lift for the snowblower attachment but the motor to run the power assist is not the but the wiring was. Thats where I made my mistake, since I cut off the wiring for it and got confused. But the choke cable was getting hot prior to that.
Wish I had a camera to show the wiring and hate to being so ignorant about electrics, but thats life.
Regards and Happy Holidays
Wally
Thanks for the input. Checked the negative battery cable for conductivity, was ok.
Am able to get the starter to turn, although it doesn't engage into the flywheel, but thats another problem (my assumption is becasue of the short, she just isn't aggressive or strong enough to push up against the flywheel and engage. The choke cable still is getting hot. Will try putting a jumper wire from the negative side of the battery, attaching it to the engine block. See if that works.
The only thought is that maybe the wiring running into the engine for the stator/alternator maybe touching somewhere inside. Don't relish tearing the engine apart, did it once already which might have caused the problem.
As to the wire which I could not determine where it goes. This tractor has the accessory of a power lift for the snowblower attachment but the motor to run the power assist is not the but the wiring was. Thats where I made my mistake, since I cut off the wiring for it and got confused. But the choke cable was getting hot prior to that.
Wish I had a camera to show the wiring and hate to being so ignorant about electrics, but thats life.
Regards and Happy Holidays
Wally
Wally- Number of posts : 6
Registration date : 2011-11-26
Re: Sears tractor Model 917.25.149 10/60
Hello Georgia SS,
Your suggestion to put a jumper from the negative side of the battery to the engine worked. She kicked over like nobody's business. And the choke cable is not getting hot. That saved me a lot of time and aggravation and I thank you for that.
Have a great holiday,
Wally
Your suggestion to put a jumper from the negative side of the battery to the engine worked. She kicked over like nobody's business. And the choke cable is not getting hot. That saved me a lot of time and aggravation and I thank you for that.
Have a great holiday,
Wally
Wally- Number of posts : 6
Registration date : 2011-11-26
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